In a word: horrendously. I don’t know why. I think it was a combination of things. I was a bit apprehensive about using such fine material. I also had several ill children, therefore very mithery children, making it hard to concentrate. I was also having a bad few days with regards to my mood – I don’t know, why, perhaps because I’ve been a wee bit under the weather.
This pattern is simple, and effective. However I managed to mess it up royally in virtually everyway imaginable. As I said I was apprehensive before sewing it as I’ve never sewn with such fine material before. I used a 70/10 needle, and this was ideal, about the only right decision I made haha.
When cutting out I found that the material was much more see-through than I thought, the stripes are completely see-through.
I was unable to find lightweight iron on interfacing, so I had to make do with sew on interfacing. I have never used this before, so I just sewed it onto the fabric with a minute gap at the edge.
The pieces that require interfacing are the collar and front edging pieces.
Once this was done, I went to begin sewing. I decided then that the fabric was too transparent for its use, so it needed a lining. I used one of my charity shop bedding sheets, cut it up into the pattern pieces I needed. I then stayed in interfacing mode and sewed each piece of lining onto each fabric piece. Arrrggghhhhh! What can I say? I’m an idiot! I of course was on auto-pilot and didn’t realise until I’d sewn both the back seam and the shoulder seams what I’d done wrong and how dreadful it looked.
The only thing I could think to rectify it slightly was to use bias tape (thankyou dottie angel for introducing me to that finishing technique!). I didn’t have any of the right colour in my notions at home. The hubby was promptly dispatched to the local haberdashery once he had finished work. I attached the bias tape over the back and shoulder seams. Of course the stitching shows through to the right side of the fabric – but I do actually quite like this look (thankfully!)
The Next bit to attach is the sleeves. This is fairly easy as you just match up the centre seams of the shoulders with the centre mark of sleeves, its a straight line and I decided to use bias tape to finish the seams.
Next, is to sew up the sleeve and side seams, very easy, straight lines. That must be the mistakes over with? Its an easy pattern – so how can any more mistakes be made. Well, here is the biggest one: I had attached the fronts on the wrong sides….
Spoiler: its not supposed to go up at the sides like that! doh! and because I’d decided to use the bias tape to finish the seams, they were well and truly finished meaning if I unpicked this flimsy material then it would be wrecked. Unexpected gap at the side it is then! I must admit I don’t hate the gap.
Next is the collar – this you stitch the back neck piece to the two side pieces, on both the interfaced pieces and the non interfaced pieces. Because I’d attached the front pieces the wrong way, this threw up more problems, namely that the front collar pieces weren’t long enough. I trimmed the front pieces a bit, but even then I needed to add extra bits onto the long collar pieces.
I trimmed the width to ensure they matched. The next is to stitch the interfaced piece around the neck of the jacket.
Right sides to right sides. You then stitch the non interfaced pieces onto these, again right sides together.
I then trimmed it down at the bottom to ensure that it lined up with the bottom of the jacket. You then turn this collar piece right side out, so the non interfaced piece becomes the facing to the collar. This then made the next issue I had become apparent. The collar. I have no idea what is wrong with it, why it looks like that. I’m going to have to ask my more experienced friends I think – it is a mess though and I don’t know how to rectify it.
I have mentioned previously that I like to topstitch when I can as I like the extra finish it adds, and I also hoped it might sort out the collar a wee bit, it didn’t.
The next step is to turn in the edge of the collar and slip stitch along the seam. I have lamented my lack of ability when it comes to hand sewing previously. I actually don’t mind the stitching showing often, hence why I’ll often use a contrasting thread. So I machine stitched the bottom edge of the collar, this predictably made the collar worse.
Next, I hemmed it, which, the gap at the sides that shouldn’t be there made that process even more interesting haha.
Finally, onto the last step – phew! Attaching the sleeve cuffs. I lined these also and you sew the seam right sides together.
Next you attach them to the main sleeve body, once again right sides together, then hem.
I am so upset with how badly I made this, the mistakes I made, as he pattern is a great pattern and had I made it well it would have turned out great. The next time I can I’m going to buy some less transparent material and I’m going to make this well, learning from my mistakes. with concentration, and I cant wait to put it to rights as it should make up really well (still unsure on what to do with the collar though haha). I’m so cross with myself.
On a more positive note I did manage to produce a garment that is wearable and I’m happy to wear it, I just have to keep the collar flipped down haha.